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A Global Journey Through Comfort Foods (Featuring Zereshk Polo Morgh)

Author: Serena Datta

As the chill of winter settles in, there’s a universal craving for food that brings both warmth and comfort. There’s something about the holiday season that calls for the warmth of home-cooked meals—dishes that comfort the soul and bring people together. One such dish that embodies these qualities is Zereshk Polo Morgh, a traditional Turkish comfort food that marries the sweetness of saffron rice with the tang of barberries and tender, spiced chicken.


Recently, I had the chance to meet up with one of my dear Turkish friends as she reminisced about dishes from her childhood.
“Every holiday, my grandmother would make a Zereshk Polo Morgh, and the whole family would gather at her house,” she shared. That sense of tradition, of being together as a family, is what made the meal so special. It’s not just the flavors; it’s the feeling of home”.


The origins of Zereshk Polo Morgh can be traced back to ancient Persia, to the Safavid dynasty (1501 to 1736), where barberries (zereshk) have been cultivated for thousands of years. for both their medicinal properties and their ability to add a unique, tart flavor to dishes. Over the centuries, as the Persian Empire’s influence spread, Zereshk Polo Morgh became a dish of prestige, often reserved for special occasions due to the costly nature of saffron and the time-consuming preparation required for the rice and chicken. For those looking to balance the indulgence of the holidays with something more nourishing, Zereshk Polo Morgh is the perfect choice!

For the Saffron Chicken:
For the Rice:
For the Barberries:
● 4 chicken thighs (with skin and drumette) ● 1 medium onion, finely sliced ● 1 tbsp tomato purée ● 1 tbsp Greek yogurt ● 2 tbsp olive oil (for the marinade) ● 1/2 tsp turmeric ● 1/8 tsp ground saffron (bloomed in 2 tbsp water) ● 1/2 lemon, juiced ● Salt and pepper, to taste ● 25g butter (to cook the chicken) ● 2 tbsp olive oil (to cook the chicken)
● 2 cups white long-grain basmati rice (approx. 400g) ● 2 tbsp salt ● 2 tbsp vegetable oil ● 2 tbsp ghee or butter ● 1/8 tsp ground saffron (bloomed in 2 tbsp water for the tahdig) ● 1/4 tsp ground saffron (bloomed in 2 tsp rose water and 2 tbsp water for the saffron rice garnish)
● 5 tbsp barberries (washed) ● 2 tbsp caster sugar (adjust to taste) ● 1/8 tsp ground saffron (bloomed in 2 tbsp water) ● 2 tbsp caster sugar

Instructions


1. Prepare the Chicken:
● Place the chicken thighs in a large bowl. Add the onion, tomato purée, yogurt, olive oil, turmeric, saffron, and lemon juice. Mix to coat evenly.
● Cover and refrigerate for at least 8 hours (overnight is best).


2. Prepare the Rice:
● Rinse the rice under cold water until the water runs clear. Soak the rice with 1 tbsp salt in a bowl of cold water, ensuring the water covers the rice by 2 inches. Soak for a minimum of 30 minutes, ideally overnight.


3. Prepare the Barberries:
● In a small saucepan, melt 1 tbsp butter over low heat. Add the barberries, sugar, and saffron water, stirring for about 30 seconds. Turn off the heat and set aside.


4. Cook the Rice:
● In a large non-stick saucepan, bring 1.5 liters of water to a boil with 1 tbsp salt. Drain the soaked rice and add it to the boiling water. Stir gently to prevent sticking.

● Cook for 3 to 7 minutes, checking frequently for “al dente” texture—soft on the outside, but firm in the center. Once ready, drain the rice and rinse briefly with cold water to stop the cooking.


5. Make the Tahdig (Crispy Rice):
● In the empty saucepan, heat 2 tbsp vegetable oil. Add the saffron-bloomed water (1/8 tsp saffron in 2 tbsp water) and stir to distribute evenly.
● Add a 1-inch layer of rice, mixing gently with the saffron oil. Then, gently mound the rest of the rice, forming a sloping pyramid shape. Poke a few holes in the rice with a spoon.

● Mix the remaining saffron-bloomed rice (1/4 tsp saffron in rose water and water) and spoon it over one side of the mound for garnish. Drizzle with 2 tbsp melted ghee or butter, and pour 2 tbsp cold water over the rice.
● Cover the saucepan with a glass lid, and place a tea towel over it to seal. Cook on high heat until steam rises, then reduce to the lowest setting. Let it steam for at least 45 minutes to form a golden, crispy tahdig.


6. Cook the Chicken:
● In a large pan, heat 2 tbsp olive oil and 25g butter over medium heat. Add the marinated chicken thighs and cook for 6–8 minutes per side, until golden and cooked through.


7. Serve:
● Spoon the saffron rice onto a platter, garnishing with the barberries and the golden saffron rice. Serve with the crispy tahdig on the side and enjoy with fresh herbs, pickles, yogurt dip, or with salad shirazi.


Recipe courtesy of https://saffronandherbs.com/2021/01/29/zereshk-polo-ba-morgh/

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